Dirt Bike Suspension Setup Guide

8 min read · Updated 29 August 2026

Suspension setup is not black magic, but it is order-dependent. Sag first, then balance, then clickers, then springs. Change that order and you will chase your tail all day.

Work in single clicks, ride the same section of track, and write down every change. If you cannot remember what you changed, you cannot go back.

Step 1 — Set race sag

For the full step-by-step procedure, see how to set sag on a dirt bike.

Measure the bike fully unloaded on a stand (free sag reference point).
With the rider in full kit, feet on the pegs and someone steadying the bike, measure again from the same two points.
Motocross race sag is typically 100–105 mm. Enduro riders often run 105–110 mm.
Check static sag afterwards: 30–40 mm without the rider. Less than 25 mm means the spring is too soft; more than 45 mm means it is too stiff for your weight.

Step 2 — Balance front to rear

Fork height in the clamps controls the bike's attitude. Raising the forks in the clamps (sliding the tubes up) quickens steering and helps the bike turn; lowering them adds stability at speed.

Move in 2–3 mm steps and keep both legs identical. Set balance before touching clickers.

Step 3 — Clickers, one at a time

Compression controls how the suspension resists being pushed into its stroke — braking bumps, landings, square edges.
Rebound controls how quickly it returns — kicking, packing, and how planted the bike feels through chop.
Turn clockwise to stiffen (slower), anticlockwise to soften (faster). Count from fully closed and record the number.
Change one clicker by two clicks, ride the same lap, then decide. Never change front and rear at once.

Symptom to fix

What you feel	Likely cause	Try
Harsh over small chop	Too much compression	Open fork compression 2 clicks
Bottoming on landings	Too little compression / soft spring	Close compression 2 clicks, then check spring rate
Rear kicks on braking bumps	Rebound too fast	Close shock rebound 2 clicks
Rear packs down and feels low	Rebound too slow	Open shock rebound 2 clicks
Headshake at speed	Front too high / too soft	Slide the fork tubes down in the clamps 2 mm (raises the front)
Bike will not turn in ruts	Front too high / rear too low	Slide the fork tubes up in the clamps 2 mm (drops the front) or add sag

Step 4 — Springs, not clickers

If sag will not land in range, or you are at the extreme end of the clicker range to get a decent feel, the spring rate is wrong for your weight. Clickers control damping, not support — no amount of clicking fixes a spring that is 1 kg/mm out.

Stock springs are generally chosen for a rider somewhere around 75–80 kg, though the exact figure varies by model and year. If you are meaningfully lighter or heavier, springs are the highest-value change you can make.

Log every change

The riders who get dialled in fastest are the ones who keep notes: clicker positions, sag, fork height, track, conditions and how it felt.

RIDEHQ stores your suspension settings per bike and per track, so you can roll back to a setup that worked instead of starting from stock every spring.

Common questions

What should motocross race sag be?

Most motocross bikes run 100–105 mm of race sag with the rider in full kit. Enduro and trail setups usually run slightly more, around 105–110 mm.

Should I adjust compression or rebound first?

Set sag and fork height first, then compression, then rebound. Change one adjuster at a time in two-click steps and ride the same section between changes.

How do I know if my suspension springs are wrong?

If you cannot get race sag into range with the preload collar, or static sag is under 25 mm or over 45 mm, the spring rate does not match your weight.